Mystery unraveled: Living on a Houseboat in the Middle of Cairo
- houseboat65alnile
- Jan 17
- 4 min read
Living on a Houseboat in the Middle of Cairo
Imagine waking up on a houseboat in the middle of Cairo, graced with the gorgeous view of the great Nile river. Imagine looking over the sparkling water as you enjoy a wonderful breakfast right in the comfort of your floating house. This morning, the river is completely still, and you can see the reflection of the city on the water; a relaxing and breathtaking panorama resembling a real-life aquarelle painting. This hidden gem is veiled by a city of twenty-one million inhabitants.
Fewer than 50 houseboats can be found floating on the Nile, in the center of Egypt’s capital and in front of Zamalek island. It is a rare sight, unique to this environment and one you cannot find anywhere else in Egypt or in the world.
No one knows exactly when the first houseboats emerged in the Egyptian capital. It is estimated that this form of habitation came to life during the Ottoman empire and evolved though the Muhammed Ali dynasty and the British protectorate. A simple idea that started from the construction of small livable boats was later revolutionized, transforming them into spacious modern-style floating houses. From that point on, people started building houseboats.
Egyptians have two common names for these traditional habitations: “Awamah” which means “floating”, and “Dahabiyah” which means “golden”. Rumor has it that during the Khalifate, it was mandatory for owners to paint their houseboats with gold paint. Others may say that the reflection of the sun on the water is what gives the vessels their golden allure.
The oldest houseboats float on a boat shaped hull. This first generation of houseboats is a heritage of ancient Egypt, from the time of the pharaohs. Some of these houseboats still exist and are purposely made for long travel. You can embark on a trip from Luxor to Aswan for a few days while making some stops in Egypt’s most praised temples.
Later on, architects found more practical and economical solutions to build these houseboats. Large floating metal containers are connected together by wooden or metal beams. These form the foundation for the house to be built on. Most of the houseboats we see today are constructed in a similar manner and are called “Awamah”.
These floating homes are usually docked at the Nile banks, so do not expect to take a trip along the river. However, staying in one place has its own advantages. Can you picture just how convenient it could be, starting to explore the Egyptian capital from the central location of your houseboat? Or think about entering into a large garden resembling a little jungle in the middle of the city, as you head back to your floating home on the riverbank?
Take your pick of amenities from vast rooftops and terraces to other original venues around the Nile. These luxurious houseboats promise an indulgent yet calming experience unrivaled by no other.
Allow me to take you back in time to the houseboat’s golden era. Throughout the Ottoman empire, houseboats were used as secondary residences for rich men of high rank, or “Pashas”, of Egypt. At that time, some of the houseboats were notably popular as the place Pashas would bring their mistresses to and somehow, this reputation never vanished completely. One of the earliest mentions of modern houseboats is in an ancient book from the 1820s about Muhammad Ali Pasha and his grandson Abbas Pasha. The rulers refer to a houseboat located in Bulaq, a neighborhood less than one kilometer away from today’s houseboats.
If you are an explorer, there is yet another facet to these mysterious vessels. During World War II, the British authorities seized most of the houseboats on the Nile. The houses were used as a retreat for the British forces. However, one of the vessels remained in the shadows and was used by the famous explorer and Count Laszlo Almasy. The houseboat served as a shelter for German spies and was later converted into the German intelligence headquarters for the Middle East, in what was known as operation Condor. The count’s story is divulged in the award-winning movie “The English Patient”.
For fans of the 60s and 70s, you’ll probably find yourself in the middle of a black and white movie scene. Houseboats were featured in many notorious Egyptian films of this period. One such movie features a scene in which Anwar El Sadat is seen on a houseboat conspiring with the spies against the British rule, some twenty years before he became Egypt’s president.
Nobel laureate Naguib Mahfouz was also a big admirer of houseboats. His famous novel “Adrift on the Nile” follows the life of a young Egyptian group gathering in a houseboat to chat and smoke after the 1956 revolution.
Whichever time period you look back at, houseboats have been an eminent part of history, carrying the magic to teleport you back to the past.
Today, houseboats are occupied by different figures from the Egyptian society. Some are owned by rich entrepreneurs, writers and artists. Others are transformed into restaurants, offices and even wellness centers. Very few houseboats are rented to tourists, an opportunity that would allow them to immerse themselves in the unique experience for a few days.
Over the past two centuries, only a handful of houseboats have preserved and kept their original styles. Houseboat 65 and Ahdaf Soueif’s houseboats are two of a kind. Located in the middle of Cairo, the entrance to Houseboat 65 is Sheikh’s Kamel gardens, featuring many local plants and cactuses from the region. Recently renovated, and made entirely out of wood, this picturesque residence still boasts the authentic nature of these traditional accommodations.
The few traditional houseboats that remain are architectural marvels. Most houseboats were made out of pine wood. Properly crafted, this soft wood can be used to create a light structure allowing the house to float on the water easily. However, some of the interiors are made out oak, beech, and other fine woods. Furnitures include cedar wood and intricate walnut woodcarving artifacts. You can also find paneled walls and tiled baths which gives them an authentic home appearance.
Before 1950, there were more than three-hundred houseboats on Cairo’s Nile river. Unfortunately, today, there are barely fifty remaining, with many still under constant threat of urban development plans.
However, one thing remains clear – as long as these houses float on the Nile, they will remain an emblematic part of Egypt’s historical and cultural heritage.
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